[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
lisp book? Sticky mouse?
Date: Wed, 15 May 91 16:24 PDT
From: JFK@BOLD-EAGLE.varian.dialnet.symbolics.com (Joe F. Karnicky)
(1) Any recommendations for a good introductory lisp book for someone
fairly experienced with C, unix, VMS ? I used to like the second
edition of LISP by Winston and Horn but that was some time ago and I
dunno what's now available.
(2) I have a Hawley X063X Mark II mouse (steel ball) that sticks now
and then. Is it reasonable to take off the bottem plate and try to
clean it up? or am I asking for trouble? What solvent should I use?
(we're no longer on a Symbolics hardware maintenance contract).
Re. real mice.
The Hawley mouse is a easily serviced. Start off with a good light, be
gentle and polish your spectacles - there are small and delicate parts
To service one, unplug the mouse (console end) or switch the console
off. There are just the two retaining screws on the bottom plate. Be
careful not to burr them or the surround as the whole bottom needs to be
smooth. When you get the black top cover off (if it is a tight fit, put
a screw driver that will just fit through the bottom plate holes, and
ease gently) don't worry if the white buttons scatter about.
Inside be very careful not to bend the tiny wires that act as contact
brushes. Before you undo the internal screws, note how the contact wires
lie on the wheels. Undo the two screws either side of the ball housing
and one more screw where the cable comes in. Watch out for the two
washers lurking below the ball.
Inside, I'd recommend NOT using any sharp objects (so don't scrape with
the point of a screwdriver).
Two areas generally need attention. Firstly the gubbins, fluff, hair,
gunk and bugs that accumulate around the main ball, it's tracker
spindles, top pressure wheel, the other two small guide balls and the
back plate itself. I use alcohol and a lint free cloth. A graphite
pencil is an excellent cleaning tool for stubborn steel bearing surfaces
and crevices (though not on electrical contacts).
The press fit cups that hold the small balls are very soft so don't use
more than a twist of cloth inside them. You are probably best advised
to leave all the bearings (press fit) alone unless there is very bad
ingress of dirt, I have yet to see any signs bearing of wear. Hairs that
have wrapped around the top wheel can be extracted using careful
Secondly the contact wheels need a light polish (alcoholic cloth). I
strongly recommend avoiding all contact with the contact wires, unless
there large cakings of crud on them. If you do bend them by mistake,
they can be straightened using forceps but you are wandering in a mine
Reassembly is more teasing than getting inside in the first place. Press
the small guide ball cups back into the plate. Laying the bottom plate
down, refit the big ball washers, then lay the ball and ball housing
in place. Holding the bottom assembly up, pinch the ball housing to
the plate, now test the ball for free movement in all directions.
If OK, lower the electrics board in top. Use care, no forcing, watch the
contact wires, check that none cross. Replace the three retaining
screws, the front one goes through the cable retaing block.
Now holding the top housing upside down, put the buttons back in their
holes. The pip on each button goes towards the front. Check that there
is no stickiness between the button and housing. Lower the bottom
assembly into the top housing. Secure the two screws - recessed but not
too tight. Plug into the juice and give it a test run, it is not
difficult to restore the working to as good if not better than new.
What is the purpose of all this? For me this old mouse is a work of art
and a beauty to behold. They don't make things like that these days.